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Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1

Gen7 Endstop assembled and ready to use.

Gen7 Endstop assembled and ready to use.

Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1 is the latest version in the development of Gen7 Endstop. It works fine on 5 V controllers as well as on 3.3 V based ones.

How to get it

Gen7 Endstop is Open Hardware. You can order kits, saving you from collecting components at various distributors, or buy fully assembled parts.

PCBs

Get Gen7 Endstop PCBs from RepRap DIY (Traumflug's outlet).

If you want to make them yourself you can find production files in the release documents folder of the Github repository and manufacturing instructions on the Gen7 main page.

Electronic Components

Get Gen7 Endstop Parts Kits from RepRap DIY (Traumflug's outlet).

Assembled Boards

Get Gen7 Endstops from RepRap DIY (Traumflug's outlet).

Assembly Instructions

Here are instructions on how to make a Gen7 Endstop.

Parts List

Name Count Designations Remarks
Resistor 180 Ohms 1R1
Resistor 1 kOhms 1R2
Resistor 2.2 kOhms 1R3
LED 3 mm Red 1LED1
Photointerrupter TCST1103 1U1 This one is without mounting flange.
Photointerrupter TCST2103 1U1 Electrically the same, with mounting flange.
Molex KK100 3-Pin Header 1CONN1
Cable Connector for the above 1
Crimp Contact for the above 3

General Considerations

  • You'll need a soldering toolkit to do most of this.
  • Read our Electronics Fabrication Guide if you're new.
  • To find out which components to put where, have the layout on your PC screen available.
  • PCBs fabricated with Voronoi paths need more heat, so raise your soldering iron's temperature by about 20 deg Celsius.
  • Start with the flattest parts, usually wire bridges or resistors. This way, components won't fall out when you lay the PCB on it's front for soldering. Then continue with parts of raising height, connectors are usually among the last ones.
  • To ease soldering jumper headers and similar components, put a small drop of glue onto the component side before inserting them. As the PCB is single-sided, this won't hurt the solder point.
  • Take care to not overheat the photo sensor. Solder one pin on each side then pause for a minute before continuing.
  • As LEDs have to be inserted the right way they have legs of different length to indicate polarity. The longer leg (+) goes into the hole closer to the photo sensor and the shorter one (-) into the hole closer to the border.

Assembly in Pictures

Click on the pictures to view them bigger.

If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the parts list.

If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the parts list.

This is the bare PCB. Milled with the traditional, non-voronoi method.

This is the bare PCB. Milled with the traditional, non-voronoi method.

For best solder quality, tin all solder points before inserting components.

For best solder quality, tin all solder points before inserting components.

First, insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.

First, insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.

Now R2, which is **brown-black-red**.

Now R2, which is **brown-black-red**.

R3 is **red-red-red**.

R3 is **red-red-red**.

Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.

Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.

Now insert the light barrier. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.

Now insert the light barrier. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.

Last, insert the cable header. Again, direction matters.

Last, insert the cable header. Again, direction matters.

Now we're done, these pictures show the work of RepRap user StevBrennan:

gen7_endstop_1.2_front.jpeg

(picture)

Assembly on Veroboard

If you don't want to etch or buy an endstop board, here is a veroboard version.

A drawing of the Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard Version. Cut the tracks at the red lines. Each cross on the squared paper coresponds to a hole in the veroboard. The designators match those in the parts list.

A drawing of the Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard Version. Cut the tracks at the red lines. Each cross on the squared paper coresponds to a hole in the veroboard. The designators match those in the parts list.

This is the bottom of the veroboard. Mounting holes are already drilled and tracks are cut in the middle under the light barrier. Tracks are also cut towards the mounting holes for preventing shorts because of the mounting screws.

This is the bottom of the veroboard. Mounting holes are already drilled and tracks are cut in the middle under the light barrier. Tracks are also cut towards the mounting holes for preventing shorts because of the mounting screws.

 Start with the wire bridges, because two will be under the light barrier. Use some left over component legs.

Start with the wire bridges, because two will be under the light barrier. Use some left over component legs.

 Now insert the light barrier. It will sit atop of the left two wire bridges. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.

Now insert the light barrier. It will sit atop of the left two wire bridges. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.

Insert the cable header. Mind the direction. Pins face to the border of the bord.

Insert the cable header. Mind the direction. Pins face to the border of the bord.

Insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.

Insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.

R3 is **red-red-red**. Mount it standing, for minimizing the size of the veroboard.

R3 is **red-red-red**. Mount it standing, for minimizing the size of the veroboard.

R2, which is **brown-black-red**.

R2, which is **brown-black-red**.

Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.

Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.

Testing

A first test would be to connect Vcc and GND, only.

  • With the light barrier open, LED should stay dark, putting (opaque) cardboard into it should light the LED up.
  • Low signal (light barrier open) on the signal pin should be around 0.3 V, well below 1.0 V, when operated on 3.3 V.
  • High signal (light barrier interrupted) should be around 2.8 V, well above 2.3 V, when connected to 3.3 V.

With everything wired correctly, it should run through the general endstop test just fine.

Setup

TBD

gen7_endstop_1.3.1.txt ยท Last modified: 2018/05/27 16:10 (external edit)