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gen7_endstop_1.3.1 [2016/03/31 02:07]
Traumflug Created from the RepRap page.
gen7_endstop_1.3.1 [2018/05/27 16:10]
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-====== Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1 ====== 
- 
-{{ :​gen7_endstop:​gen7_endstop_1.2_assembled.jpeg?​direct&​200|Gen7 Endstop assembled and ready to use.}} 
- 
-Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1 is the latest version in the development of [[Gen7 Endstop]]. It works fine on 5\_V controllers as well as on 3.3\_V based ones. 
- 
-  * Status: working and shipping. 
-  * License: GPLv2 
-  * Sources: [[http://​github.com/​Traumflug/​Generation_7_Electronics|Gen7 Endstop on GitHub]] (within the Gen7 repository). 
- 
-====== How to get it ====== 
- 
-Gen7 Endstop is Open Hardware. You can order kits, saving you from collecting components at various distributors,​ or buy fully assembled parts. 
- 
-===== PCBs ===== 
- 
-Get Gen7 Endstop PCBs from [[start|RepRap DIY]] (Traumflug'​s outlet). 
- 
-If you want to make them yourself you can find production files in the [[https://​github.com/​Traumflug/​Generation_7_Electronics/​tree/​release-1.3.1/​release%20documents|release documents folder of the Github repository]] and manufacturing instructions [[Generation 7 Electronics#​PCB Manufacturing|on the Gen7 main page]]. 
- 
-===== Electronic Components ===== 
- 
-Get Gen7 Endstop Parts Kits from [[start|RepRap DIY]] (Traumflug'​s outlet). 
- 
-===== Assembled Boards ===== 
- 
-Get Gen7 Endstops from [[start|RepRap DIY]] (Traumflug'​s outlet). 
- 
-====== Assembly Instructions ====== 
- 
-Here are instructions on how to make a Gen7 Endstop. 
- 
-===== Parts List ===== 
- 
-^Name                       ​^Count ^Designations ^Remarks ^ 
-|Resistor 180\_Ohms ​        ​| ​    ​1|R1 ​          | | 
-|Resistor 1\_kOhms ​         |     ​1|R2 ​          | | 
-|Resistor 2.2\_kOhms ​       |     ​1|R3 ​          | | 
-|LED 3\_mm Red              |     ​1|LED1 ​        | | 
-|Photointerrupter TCST1103 ​ |     ​1|U1 ​          |This one is without mounting flange. | 
-|Photointerrupter TCST2103 ​ |     ​1|U1 ​          ​|Electrically the same, with mounting flange. | 
-|Molex KK100 3-Pin Header ​  ​| ​    ​1|CONN1 ​       | | 
-|Cable Connector for the above |  1|             | | 
-|Crimp Contact for the above   ​| ​ 3|             | | 
- 
-===== General Considerations ===== 
- 
-  * You'll need a [[SolderingToolKit|soldering toolkit]] to do most of this. 
-  * Read our [[ElectronicsFabricationGuide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]] if you're new. 
-  * To find out which components to put where, have the layout on your PC screen available. 
-  * PCBs fabricated with Voronoi paths need more heat, so raise your soldering iron's temperature by about 20 deg Celsius. 
-  * Start with the flattest parts, usually wire bridges or resistors. This way, components won't fall out when you lay the PCB on it's front for soldering. Then continue with parts of raising height, connectors are usually among the last ones. 
-  * To ease soldering jumper headers and similar components, put a small drop of glue onto the component side before inserting them. As the PCB is single-sided,​ this won't hurt the solder point. 
-  * Take care to not overheat the photo sensor. Solder one pin on each side then pause for a minute before continuing. 
-  * As LEDs have to be inserted the right way they have legs of different length to indicate polarity. The longer leg (+) goes into the hole closer to the photo sensor and the shorter one (-) into the hole closer to the border. 
- 
-===== Assembly in Pictures ===== 
- 
-Click on the pictures to view them bigger. 
- 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Layout.png?​direct&​200 |If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the parts list.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 PCB.jpeg?​direct&​200 |This is the bare PCB. Milled with the traditional,​ non-voronoi method.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 01.jpeg?​direct&​200 |For best solder quality, tin all solder points before inserting components.}}| 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 02.jpeg?​direct&​200 |First, insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 03.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Now R2, which is **brown-black-red**.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 04.jpeg?​direct&​200 |R3 is **red-red-red**.}}| 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 05.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembly 06.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Now insert the light barrier. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Assembled.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Last, insert the cable header. Again, direction matters.}}| 
- 
-Now we're done, these pictures show the work of RepRap user //​StevBrennan//:​ 
- 
-| {{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Front.jpeg?​direct&​300 }}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.2 Back.jpeg?​direct&​300 }}| 
- 
-===== Assembly on Veroboard ===== 
- 
-If you don't want to etch or buy an endstop board, here is a veroboard version. 
- 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard Schematic.jpeg?​direct&​200 |A drawing of the Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard Version. Cut the tracks at the red lines. Each cross on the squared paper coresponds to a hole in the veroboard. The designators match those in the parts list.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard Bottom.jpeg?​direct&​200 |This is the bottom of the veroboard. Mounting holes are already drilled and tracks are cut in the middle under the light barrier. Tracks are also cut towards the mounting holes for preventing shorts because of the mounting screws.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 01.jpeg?​direct&​200 | Start with the wire bridges, because two will be under the light barrier. Use some left over component legs.}}| 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 02.jpeg?​direct&​200 | Now insert the light barrier. It will sit atop of the left two wire bridges. Watch out for the letters on the housing, they should be readable from the mounting hole side. Solder one pin on the left, then one on the right, then make a pause of a minute before fixing the remaining ones.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 03.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Insert the cable header. Mind the direction. Pins face to the border of the bord.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 04.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Insert and solder R1, which is 180\_ohms, so it's color-coded **brown-grey-brown**.}}| 
-|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 05.jpeg?​direct&​200 |R3 is **red-red-red**. Mount it standing, for minimizing the size of the veroboard.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 06.jpeg?​direct&​200 |R2, which is **brown-black-red**.}}|{{ Gen7 Endstop:​Gen7 Endstop 1.3 Veroboard 07.jpeg?​direct&​200 |Because it matters which direction LEDs are inserted, they have legs of different length. The longer leg is +, which is inserted closer to the mouting holes.}}| 
- 
-====== Testing ====== 
- 
-A first test would be to connect Vcc and GND, only. 
- 
-  * With the light barrier open, LED should stay dark, putting (opaque) cardboard into it should light the LED up. 
-  * Low signal (light barrier open) on the signal pin should be around 0.3\_V, well below 1.0\_V, when operated on 3.3\_V. 
-  * High signal (light barrier interrupted) should be around 2.8\_V, well above 2.3\_V, when connected to 3.3\_V. 
- 
-With everything wired correctly, it should run through the [[Endstop#​Endstop Testing | general endstop test]] just fine. 
- 
-====== Setup ====== 
- 
-TBD 
  
gen7_endstop_1.3.1.txt ยท Last modified: 2018/05/27 16:10 (external edit)