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Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1
Gen7 Endstop v1.3.1 is the latest version in the development of Gen7 Endstop. It works fine on 5 V controllers as well as on 3.3 V based ones.
How to get it
Gen7 Endstop is Open Hardware. You can order kits, saving you from collecting components at various distributors, or buy fully assembled parts.
Get Gen7 Endstop Parts Kits from RepRap DIY (Traumflug's outlet).
Get Gen7 Endstops from RepRap DIY (Traumflug's outlet).
Here are instructions on how to make a Gen7 Endstop.
|Name ||Count ||Designations ||Remarks
|Resistor 180 Ohms || 1||R1 ||
|Resistor 1 kOhms || 1||R2 ||
|Resistor 2.2 kOhms || 1||R3 ||
|LED 3 mm Red || 1||LED1 ||
|Photointerrupter TCST1103 || 1||U1 ||This one is without mounting flange.
|Photointerrupter TCST2103 || 1||U1 ||Electrically the same, with mounting flange.
|Molex KK100 3-Pin Header || 1||CONN1 ||
|Cable Connector for the above || 1|| ||
|Crimp Contact for the above || 3|| ||
To find out which components to put where, have the layout on your PC screen available.
PCBs fabricated with Voronoi paths need more heat, so raise your soldering iron's temperature by about 20 deg Celsius.
Start with the flattest parts, usually wire bridges or resistors. This way, components won't fall out when you lay the PCB on it's front for soldering. Then continue with parts of raising height, connectors are usually among the last ones.
To ease soldering jumper headers and similar components, put a small drop of glue onto the component side before inserting them. As the PCB is single-sided, this won't hurt the solder point.
Take care to not overheat the photo sensor. Solder one pin on each side then pause for a minute before continuing.
As LEDs have to be inserted the right way they have legs of different length to indicate polarity. The longer leg (+) goes into the hole closer to the photo sensor and the shorter one (-) into the hole closer to the border.
Assembly in Pictures
Click on the pictures to view them bigger.
Now we're done, these pictures show the work of RepRap user StevBrennan:
Assembly on Veroboard
If you don't want to etch or buy an endstop board, here is a veroboard version.
A first test would be to connect Vcc and GND, only.
With the light barrier open, LED should stay dark, putting (opaque) cardboard into it should light the LED up.
Low signal (light barrier open) on the signal pin should be around 0.3 V, well below 1.0 V, when operated on 3.3 V.
High signal (light barrier interrupted) should be around 2.8 V, well above 2.3 V, when connected to 3.3 V.
With everything wired correctly, it should run through the general endstop test just fine.
gen7_endstop_126.96.36.1999382822.txt.gz · Last modified: 2018/05/27 16:10 (external edit)